Starting out

Our screen door had multiple tears in it, including around the handle, so lots of bugs of all sizes were getting in, making our home theirs.  We’d see them while we were eating, watching TV, or just walking around the house.  

The door was also too large for the frame and had multiple rusty parts that weren’t working properly.  I finally decided it was time to do something about it.

Finding the right door

It took a surprising amount of time to find a replacement door, perhaps because I previously looked at the wrong time of year.

I ultimately found a screen door that looked like ours online, at Home Depot, and went to pick it up.  What I forgot to do was bring a tape measure with me.  Big oops!  Screen doors come in 30” and 36” and each box seemed to have similar labels on them.  For whatever reason I also didn’t line them on top of each other to compare sizes.  I ended up grabbing the wrong size, the 30”, which fell short of the middle of our door frame, and had to go back and get the right size.

Although I measured the inside of my car for each door size, I wasn’t sure if the door(s) would actually fit inside my car (a Subaru Forester) vs. using the overhead rack.  The latter option was not appealing because the doors are so light they blow around easily in the wind.  I also got some strange looks from other people while I was trying to secure the 36” door to the roof rack.  Thankfully, I figured out a creative way to fit the door inside.

Swapping out the doors

Screen doors have two set of flexible wheels at the top and the bottom, which allow you to remove or install them.  The wheels on the bottom follow a track that allows the door to slide smoothly back and forth.

As I mentioned before, the old door was full of rusty parts, including the track wheels, so it took a bit to remove.  Additionally, I discovered the metal track strip in the doorframe wasn’t installed properly and lots of dirt and debris had collected beneath it.  I cleaned it all out and reinstalled the track bar.  

From there it was smoother sailing.  I lined up the running wheels on the bottom track, pushed the door frame down and used a screwdriver to push the upper track wheels into place.  

I pulled the rubber strip fastened onto the end of the old door and attached it to the new door.  Everything was working smoothly.

Final thoughts

I really can’t tell you how much of a difference the new screen door has me for us.  The change was immediate.  It’s one of those little changes that can make a HUGE difference in your life.  I only wish I’d taken care of this earlier, like when I remodeled the deck.  It certainly would have saved us money.

The new screen door also included parts so you could lock the door from the inside.  

So, I installed the locking mechanism and for the first time we had a screen door without any holes in it that we could lock (although I wouldn’t reply on it for extended times away).  Still, a double win!

Check out my YouTube video for this project.

Below is the cost of the screen door. We saved around $100-150 doing this DIY style. If you missed it, be sure to check out how I remodeled our back deck.

Materials and Cost$:

Screen Door-$98.00

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Starting out

It’s a versatile room, with basic cabinetry that was never painted or stained. We had previously painted the walls, which were originally a pale yellow, and replaced the appliances when we were updating our kitchen.

On the pantry side of the room the cabinets had Ikea-like wood knobs. The cabinetry on the opposite side of the room had no knobs at all.

Most egregiously, the room had the last remaining boob ceiling light in our house. 

While we really wanted to replace the door hinges with soft closing hinges, the current hinges are cut into the door frames. There is no easy way to cover up the gaps and new hinges wouldn’t attach to the cabinets properly. So, we stuck with the original hinges and that helped reduce the project budget.

Choosing A Color

There was a lot of thought that went into the color palette of the room. The wood cabinets provided us with a blank canvass.

This didn’t make it any easier for us to make decisions. The reason: there are no windows in the pantry and the floor tile, which we decided to keep due to budget constraints, is predominately white and gray.

We considered earthy colors such as brown and green. Brown really appealed to us because it matched the dining table and would have channeled the ‘mud’ part of the space. Ultimately we passed on both colors; they were too dark for the room. We also considered blue, which is our favorite color, and multiple shades of gray.

Initially we leaned into painting the cabinets a light gray since there are a lot of gray tones in our kitchen – from the rug and chairs in the dining space to the cushions on the kitchen island stools. Even the stainless-steel appliances and drawer handles are gray-like.

We also thought of using a natural wood stain, but that didn’t feel right in the space given we wanted to leave the shelves and bench area unpainted.

Ultimately, we landed on white paint. In addition to brightening up the room, it gives the space a cohesive look.

Priming and Painting

The first step for the refresh was applying 2” wide painter’s tape to the bench and shelves.  My plan was to polyurethane them once I finished painting the cabinets.  After applying the painter’s tape, I removed the cabinet doors so that I could prime and paint the doors and cabinets separately. 

There were a lot of knots in the raw wood, so I applied multiple coats of primer to seal them up.  

From there, I gave every surface a light sanding with 150 grit sand paper, followed by a top coat of the Valspar Ultra-White Paint paint.

Once the paint was dry, it was time to re-attach the doors.

Adding New Door Handles

Once the doors were in place, I swapped out the wooden door handles with the same stainless-steel knobs I used for our primary walk-in closet dressers. I drilled new holes for the doors above and between the washer and dryer.  

The handles were actually on clearance. I was able to purchase them at just 1 dollar a piece!  I ended up grabbing enough of them for the mud room and for our new living room TV console.

They really POP against the white paint and perfectly match the stainless steal appliances and cabinet handles in the kitchen.

Adding Polycrylic

Then I removed the painter’s tape and switched to a water-based Polycrylic Clear Gloss top coat for the bench and shelves. Polycrylic is an acrylic-dominant blend with added urethane.

It’s more for protecting the natural wood than to add any coloring to it and contrasts nicely with the white cabinets.

Adding A Cleaning Tool Rack

An additional detail I added to our broom closet is a 5 clip rack.  Previously, each of our cleaning tools was tossed into the cabinet.   This simple rack now keeps all of the handles organized and in place.

Swapping the ceiling light

The last step was swapping out the boob light for a new stainless-steel LED light.  I made sure to line up the black, white and ground wires properly.

We are very happy with the new lighting fixture. It’s inexpensive and elegant all at the same time.

Final thoughts

The refresh has made the laundry / mud / pantry room feel larger and more welcoming.  It now looks more like an intentional extension of our kitchen.  Now we just need to add a dimmer switch so the LED light, which I set to a warm yellow (2500), isn’t quite so bright!

Below is a breakdown of materials and costs if you are planning a similar refresh.

Materials and Cost$

Lowe’s:

Cleaning Tool Rack-$15.98

Door Knobs– 16x at $1 each-$16.00

Minwax Polycrylic Clear Gloss-$14.98

Valspar Ultra-White Paint-$46.98

Paint Brush: 2x @10.98 -$21.90

Painter’s Tape-$7.58

Home Depot:

Ceiling Light-$21.99

LG Appliances:

Washer-$839.00

Dryer-$839.00

Project Total: $1,815.80

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Starting out

In my last post, I described how much of a difference installing crown molding made to elevate the first floor of our house.  Well, we needed more than that in our dining room space, which was just a blank and boring wall.

We puzzled over whether to add artwork to the wall, which presented its own challenges. What artwork did we want to display? What size canvas did we need?  

Then I saw an online photo of ‘picture frame’ molding on Wayfair. It is such a versatile option, whether you incorporate wall paper or paint within the faming, or simply let the molding pieces stand out on their own.  I knew this was the best option of our dining area.

What Wayfair sends you

Each package includes installation instructions and molding pieces for six sections: a top row with a large central section between two taller and narrower frames, and a bottom row with smaller corresponding sections.  Everything came numbered (parts 1, 2 or 3), making it easy to grab what you need quickly. The molding is pre-painted polystyrene that is super easy to clean.

Establishing the framing grid

Before I could install any of the molding, I had to measure out the wall and determine where each section was going to land, factoring in the width of each molding piece.  This established a grid I could reference during the installation process.

Installing the molding

I worked my way down from the crown molding, and in from the doorway to our mudroom and the wall leading to our back deck, using a level to keep everything lined up properly.

The directions for the molding suggest you can install the individual pieces without using a nail gun, just strong adhesive with masking tape.

I used painter’s tape I had available and this approach didn’t work for me.  The molding pieces kept shifting around when I matched up their corners. The tape also wasn’t strong enough to keep the sections in place or keep them tightly sealed against the wall.  They kept falling on the floor.

So, I grabbed my brad nail gun and that proved more effective along with the adhesive.

Some of the pieces required precise trimming to accommodate the light switch panel leading to the mudroom as well as an electrical outlet.  I used my oscillating multi-tool to make the precise cuts.

Once I had the first package of molding installed, I realized that I needed additional molding to finish bookending the dining area. 

Caulking and cleanup

Once I had all of the molding pieces installed, I added caulk along each of the seams. 

From there, I used a wet paper towel and 150 grit sandpaper to clean off all the excess adhesive and caulking.  I didn’t even need to paint it!

Final thoughts

Adding the ‘picture frame’ wainscoting was totally the right decision for our dining area and we’re thinking about adding it to other areas on our 1^st floor.  We may add some artwork to the middle section, but for now we are enjoying the look as is.  

Below is a breakdown of material and costs for this project.  If you liked this post, check out how we replaced our carpeting with new hardwood floors.

Materials & Cost$

Wayfair

Wainscoting-$‌64.76 each (2x) / $129.52

Lowe’s

Caulk-$4.48 each (2x) / 8.96

Liquid Nails Adhesive-$2.98 each

Project Total: $141.46

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However, once I built the new bookcase in our home office, I knew it needed crown molding across the top.  Once I installed it, I realized the whole room needed it and from there the whole first floor needed it!

Getting Started

The first thing you need to do is decide what kind of crown molding you want and whether you want 2 3/4” or 3 ¾” molding.  Below is a breakdown of your options:

• Solid Wood: Natural grains like pine, oak, or cherry; best for staining or high-end custom looks.
• MDF: (Medium Density Fiberboard): Budget-friendly wood composite that cuts cleanly and is meant for indoor painting.
• Polyurethane / Urethane: Lightweight, moisture-resistant, and factory-primed; great for DIY installations and high-humidity rooms like bathrooms.
• PVC: Waterproof synthetic material used mostly for heavy moisture or exterior applications.
• Flexible: Pliable polymer resin engineered to bend around curved walls, arches, or circular windows

We went with solid wood for our installation.

Installation is tricky and there are several steps in the process:

Cutting and installing crown molding is a tricky process.  Unlike normal square cuts, crown molding is both cut and installed at an angle.  Plus, there are ‘inside’ as well as ‘outside’ cuts.  You really need to create templates to make the process manageable. I will get more into that further down.

The prep work

Before you start your crown molding installation project, you need to do some prep work. 

First you want to mark your miter saw so that each of your cuts are consistent. Start by cutting two sections of molding that will serve as your ‘inside’ and ‘outside’ templates. From there, place a template section upside down on your miter saw (imagine that the tableof the miter saw (the cutting surface) is the ceiling and the fence (what you use to ensure your wood is straight) is the wall). Then position the piece at an angle so that the top and bottom are flat against the fence and table surfaces.

Once you are comfortable with the placement of your template piece, take a marker and draw a line along your miter saw.  This will ensure that you line up each piece of molding at the same angle consistently.

Repeat this step with the table bevel at a 45* angle, both left and right.

Next, cut your templates for ‘inside’ and ‘outside’ corners.

Next, take your templates and test them against your work surfaces to ensure they are cut appropriately. 

If they are correct, take a marker and write on them with the details below so you can grab them as needed quickly. These templates will guide you through the installation process.

 Now you are ready to begin cutting and installing your molding!

Cutting and fitting your molding

To begin the cutting and fitting process, take your tape measure and measure your first cut, noting whether your need to make an ‘inside’ or ‘outside’ cut.

Copy that measurement onto your first piece of molding, being sure to hold it upside down so you make your cut from the bottom of the molding. Take the appropriate template and confirm what angle you want to cut.

Cut the molding

From there, bevel your miter saw in the corresponding direction, line your molding up on your miter saw and make your cut. 

Leave a little bit of extra space in case you need to trim down the molding.  It’s always better to have too long a cut then to be short! If your molding piece requires another angled cut at the opposite end, mark and cut that angle.

Check your fitting

Take your newly cut molding piece and the template piece and position them up on your wall, ‘rolling’ them into position until your angles match.  You may want a second pair hands handy to help balance longer molding sections while you are doing this.

Mark Your Caulk Line

If the angles look good, draw lines marking where the top and bottom of your molding should line up.

Move your ladder along the wall and continue drawing the lines where you will place your molding. You can use your template piece if that is easier.

Caulk the wall and ceiling

From there, either add caulking to the ceiling and wall just within your line or on the edges of the molding sections themselves.  This will help the molding seal against the surfaces as the temperature changes and things shift throughout the year.

Nail the molding

Next, hold the new molding and your template against the ceiling and wall again, ensuring a snug fit, swap the template out for your brad nail gun and begin securing the molding into place.

Continue nailing in the molding piece into place, leaving some slack at the opposite end so you can repeat the fitting process as needed.

Repeat these steps for each cut and install.

Joining two sections of molding together, seamlessly

As was the case for me, there may be some walls that require you to join two sections of molding together (ie. a 12’ section and an 8’ section).  You want the seam to be in place that is the least noticeable (above a doorway, ‘hidden’ above furniture, etc.).

In this case, place the molding flat against the miter saw fence (again, upside down), move your bevel to either the left or right at a 45 degree angle, and make your cut. An angled seam will be harder to notice than if you used a straight cut.  Once installed, measure out the remaining distance. 

Then cut your second piece at the same 45 degree angle. You want to match this same cut with your next piece so they merge together, seamlessly. Don’t forget to use your ‘inside’ or ‘outside’ template to make sure your corner angles are flush.

Then add some caulking to the ceiling, wall and seam and nail it in.

I had to do this twice for my kitchen / dining space, once over the doorway and again over the archway.

The ceiling in the corner was bowed upward, making it challenging to secure the molding properly. The original section I put up fell off, snapping in two, and I had to start all over, but it all came together in the end.

End Corners

At some point, you will likely run into an area that requires an end piece. I had two of those at the start of our hallway.

These smaller pieces are tricky to cut because they are so small. I used a pair of pliers to hold the molding down while cutting it (sorry, no photos) and I had to do this repeatedly until I had a snug fit. Once I had a good fit, I added caulking to each edge and used the nail gun very carefully so I wouldn’t impact my fingers.

Caulking and sanding

Once you have your molding installed, caulk the seams along your molding, in the corners and anywhere you have two sections of molding merged together.  I used Alex Plus 40 year caulking which I find really easy to use and clean up.

I also used spackle (joint compound) to cover the brad nail holes.

Once the caulk is dry, take a wet towel (and possibly 150 grit sandpaper) and clean away any excess caulking. Then paint the crown molding in your desired color.  I used Valspar’s Signature Semi-Gloss and it took me two coats to achieve the finished look I wanted.

Final Thoughts

While it was certainly a laborious process, the new crown molding in our hallway, dining room area and first floor guest room looks amazing.  The molding has really elevated the entire first floor.  

Below is a breakdown of materials and costs if you are considering making the same upgrade to your home.

Materials and Cost$

Lowe’s:

Crown Molding– $293.20

Alex Plus Caulking 2 tubes- $8.17

If you enjoyed this post, be sure to check out my home office remodel project, which inspired this whole crown molding endeavor.  I’ve also determined that some additional trim detail is what our dining room area, which is currently a blank wall, needs.  That’s up next.

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Starting out

When we first moved into our house, we knew we needed a home office. When you enter our house, the first room you see was the perfect size for our needs. The room is spacious enough for both of us to work comfortably inside it, but it’s also a completely blank canvas, with no storage space and walls that would require a fresh coat of paint. 

The first thing we did was repaint all of the first floor walls, which really helped brighten everything up.

My work space was limited to a drawer-less Ikea table and we sourced a used metal and glass table-top desk someone had left on a NYC street for Joanna. I eventually upgraded to a more spacious desk my father used as a lawyer. Both of us had all our files in plastic tubs and all of our books and office materials were boxed up. We functioned this way for 3+ years, prioritizing other remodeling projects.

Using Sketchup, I worked on a new layout that was more functional and attractive, a space we actually wanted to spend time in.

The Custom Bookcase

The most important thing the office needed was more storage space. I scrounged the internet, reviewing interior design blogs for bookcase inspiration. I determined there wasn’t anything pre-fabricated that would fit along our 152″ long wall. Plus pre-designed filing cabinets are expensive. It was apparent I was going to have to build something custom and ultimately found a series of posts at The DIY Playbook that served as the inspiration for our new bookcase. Some key differences were that we couldn’t fit 24″ base cabinets in our office due to how the radiator in the room impacted furniture placement. I wound up using pre-drilled melamine side panels and shelving for our bookcase.

Regardless, the bookcase now looks like it was always intended to be there and we have gleefully spent time transferring our book collection onto the shelves, even finding some duplicates of film related books we separately collected. There is some space to spare for now, but we know that will change later this year as we further consolidate our collections.

Refinishing the family heirloom desks

The next priority was refinishing my father’s childhood desk, which Joanna now uses, and the desk he used later as a lawyer. Both were beaten up from years of use and being moved around over the years. I used both a stripping gel as well as heavy, followed by fine grit sandpaper to remove the old stain from the desk, finding the sanding to be more effective for that project. The desks now have matching mahogany stain on them.

Office Filing

While I had been using a vertical gray filing cabinet , Joanna was not a fan of it, and it really didn’t work next to the new bookcase. We actually had a second horizontal filing cabinet that was parked in her parent’s basement. We had spent several years trying to figure out a way to get rid of it, until I realized it might be perfect for our new layout.

Adding Crown Molding

While I had install crown molding during the bookcase build, I realized I really needed to add it to the entire room. I watched a couple of YouTube videos before I started this process. Crown molding is tricky to install both because of the angle you install it as well as the angle you need to cut it. It’s literally an upside down process!

After a couple of mis-cuts, I eventually got my angles cut correctly and ‘rolled’ them into place properly, applying caulk during and after the installation, followed by two coats of paint. I think they came out pretty well.

Final Thoughts

The office furniture and wall hangings are now in place and we are so much happier with how the room looks. We ultimately decided to forego the floating shelves we’d initially planned for, both for functionality and because we have a lot of art and posters we need space to hang. We’ll ultimately replace the ceiling fan, but that is a project for another day.

More importantly, the cabinet doors have just enough space to swing fully open at the ends, just as my Sketchup layout indicated they would.

Plus, we have the perfect place to store and use our shredders (yes, we collected two over the years) using the plug I cut out space for.

Below is a breakdown of materials and costs if you are envisioning your own home office remodel. If you liked this post, you may also be interested in reading about our primary bathroom and kitchen remodels.

Materials and Cost$

Custom Bookcase Project Total: $1,691.66

Desk Refinishing Project Total: $121.98

Crown Moulding + Caulking: $76.60

Project Total: $1,890.24

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Refinishing: Starting out

One is the desk my father used as a lawyer.  It is bulky, with deep drawers and an expansive 53” top.  It even has two pull-out shelves if you need to spread out even further.  Lastly, it has 3 leather inlays sections that I want to preserve.

The other was his smaller childhood desk, which is less bulky and has a more typical 42” surface.

Both desks are scratched, faded and generally beaten up from years of use and being moved multiple times.  

Repairs Using Woodfiller

The bases of both desks were pretty beaten up at the corners, rear and side seams.

I used wood filler to patch up the damaged areas of each desk, sanding down each area and adding more as needed to rebuild the details.  

Stripping the old stain off

Simultaneously, I worked on stripping off the stain on each desk.

There are two ways to strip furniture down to their original wood.  One is to use a stripping agent and the other is to use a heavy grit sand paper.  I decided to use both methods to see which worked better.

There are two options for stripping agents, and it basically comes down to how toxic or not toxic they are.  The toxic options have all sorts of warnings on the back of their cans warning you about the impacts of their contents.  Basically, you don’t want to inhale the stuff, get any on your skin and they are highly flammable.  

While the toxic options are very effective and easily cut through multiple layers of paints and stains, I remembered using the stuff years ago, outdoors, but without a face mask.  Big mistake!  Hours later my stomach was in nauseating pain and I also broke out with a nose bleed.

I did not want to repeat that experience.  So, this time I went with the less toxic route using Citri Strip.  You still don’t want the stuff to get on your skin, etc., but it’s not flammable and even comes with a nice citrusy fragrance.

Klean Strip is another non-toxic brand you can try out. You can find these brands at any of your local hardware stores such as Lowe’s, Home Depot, etc.

This time I wore a face mask and safety glasses and disposable gloves just to be on the safe side.  

I first tested the stripper on the side of the legal desk indoors using a disposable paint brush and putty knife and let it sit between 30 – 90 minutes to see if the timing had an impact on efficiency.  

No matter how long I let the stripping gel do its work, it took two coats to remove the stain from the desk.  It was also a super messy experience cleaning up the sticky and gooey residue that peeled off.

Then I had to let the wood sit for 24 hours to let it dry out before I could sand it.  There were areas where it actually looked like the wood was sweating.

Sanding everything smooth

Once I started sanding, using 150 grit sand paper with my DeWalt sander, I quickly realized I could no longer do the work indoors.  Dust was getting everywhere, including the new bookshelf I’d just installed.  We had to move everything into our garage.

This proved problematic.  Spring was just getting started. It was raining a lot and temps fluctuated between 90 degrees one day, and 25 degrees one night, all within a week.  It was so bad that virtually all of the local farmers, apple and wine growers in the Hudson Valley reported experiencing substantial loss because the new blossoms died overnight. They lit bonfires and used helicopters overnight to try staving off the worst, but it was just too much of a shock to their harvests.

For me it limited when I could apply new stain.  So, I focused on getting all of the old stain removed and sanding the two desks.  I continued using 150 grit sandpaper, which I had readily available, but I was going through it quickly.  

I ultimately used some 80 grit and that much more effective to get the heaviest stain off, then returned to the 150 grit to smooth the surfaces out.

Applying Gel Stain

During the moments when it was warm enough, I switched to staining, using a Mahogany Gel Stain that I could apply using a staining pad. The staining pad makes it much easier to get into hard to reach areas than a paint brush and applies the stain evenly with a smooth finish.  It ultimately took two coats of the gel stain to cover all of the surfaces.  

I also added two coats of Fast Drying Polyurethane to the top of the smaller desk.

The drawers for the smaller desk had a musky smell to them, so I rubbed a coat of lemon oil into them to freshen them up and provide protection for them going forward.  I’m sure I will need to do this periodically in the future.

Final Thoughts

With the two desks now stained and dried, they look much improved and we can’t wait to start using them.  If I’m refinishing any furniture in the future, I will stick to using heavy sandpaper followed by fine grit sandpaper vs. the stain stripper.  The latter is better for refinishing surfaces that are already peeling and the surfaces need to be sanded either way.

Just be careful because there can always be lead in the paint/stain and that can easily end up in the air you breath.

Below is a breakdown of materials and costs if you also have furniture that needs refinishing. If you missed my previous post, learn how I built custom bookshelves for our office space.

Materials and Cost$

CitriStrip (1 qt)-$13.98

Dust Mask-$2.51

Fast Drying Polyurathane-$9.98

Eye Protection-$9.98

80 Grit Sandpaper-$6.88

150 Grit Sandpaper-$12.98

Mahogany Gel Stain (2x)-$24.98 each

Staining Pads (4 pack)-$7.98

Disposables

Brush-$1.67

Gloves-$2.98

Putty Knives-$3.98

Project Total: $121.98

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Looking at our options

The rear wall in our office is just over 152″ long (12.5′) with an 8′ high ceiling. I looked at multiple stores online for a pre-fabricated bookshelf and cabinet set that I could use in my home office, but I couldn’t find anything that would fit against this wall or was within our budget.  Built-in filing cabinets are quite expensive. So, after getting inspiration from another bookcase build on The DIY Playbook, I decided to custom build it, using materials from both Lowe’s and Home Depot. 

I recently built our walk-in closet using hardwood, with fixed shelves. Because we wanted flexibility with our shelving, I decided to go with pre-drilled melamine vs. plywood boards with time. 

Melamine boards are an engineered wood product made by heat-fusing a resin-impregnated paper onto a core, typically particleboard or MDF, creating a durable, pre-finished surface. It is known for being budget-friendly, scratch-resistant, and easy to clean.

For the lower cabinets, we went with ready-to-ship 30x12x30 Project Source upper kitchen cabinets. While we preferred to use 24″ lower kitchen cabinets, we didn’t have space for that size because of the radiator and upright piano along one of the walls.

I pre-ordered all of our building materials and had them shipped to our house. Coincidentally, both Lowe’s and Home Deport made their deliveries simultaneously. That led to some funny conversations and unexpected traffic control going in and out of our driveway!

The building process

The building process involves: 

1. removing the existing baseboards
2. building out the base for the cabinetry
3. installing the cabinets and screwing them together
4. installing the countertop
5. installing the side panels for the bookcase shelving
6. cutting and installing the shelves
7. sanding down the countertop and cabinets
8. painting countertop and cabinets
9. adding trim, crown molding and baseboards
10. loading up the bookcase

Building out the cabinet base

The first step in the building process was removing the existing baseboards where the cabinets were going to be set up. I used a scrap corner piece of baseboard so I could cut the baseboard at a 45 degree angle where the new baseboard will land.

Once the baseboard was removed, I set about cutting 12.5 foot sections of 2×4’s to build out the cabinetry base, first using my circular saw, then using my miter saw.  Then I remeasured the distance between the two sections, cut additional 2×4’s to fit, and spaced them out. I didn’t have 2” brad nails handy, so I used 3” inch wood screws to tie the base frame together.

Once the frame was complete, I fitted it into place. I used my stud finder to locate the studs in the wall and again used 3” screws to secure the frame to the wall.

Installing the cabinets

With the base in place it was time to set the cabinets into place. Since the wall was 152.5″ long, and the cabinets were 30″ and there were 5 of them, that left a 1″ gap on each end. This was the most efficient cabinet layout we could work with and the reason we went with 30″ vs. 36″ cabinets. 

Although the base frame was level, the two end cabinets did not line up properly, so I added shims beneath them. 

I screwed the cabinets into the wall studs and also into the base for stability and added 1″ trim pieces on each end to fill in the gaps.

Installing the countertop

With the lower cabinets installed, it was time to install the countertop. I could not find a lumber store that sold 1″x12″x14′ or 1″x15″x14′ boards, so I ordered two 1″x12″x8′ and 1″x12″x6′ boards that I could mold together using wood filler. While placing them down on the cabinets for fitting and to measure my cuts, I ran into an unexpected issue. The boards weren’t wide enough to cover the countertops! They were short by 1/2″ width-wise! I also noticed there was a 3/8″ variance in the rear wall to one side that I needed to compensate for.

I realized this would also impact the lumber I had ordered for the tops of the bookcase. So, I returned the boards and picked up 1″x15″x8′ and 1″x15″x6′ boards instead. I decided on a 1″ lip over the cabinets, which would allow me to install 1″ trim pieces to cover the bookshelf panels, so I had to trim the boards down to 13″ width-wise in addition to shortening them.

The boards were too wide for my miter saw, so I cut the counter tops using my circular saw, then trimmed them down further with the multi-tool. I used my neighbors table saw to cut the boards length-wise to achieve the 13″ width.

With the countertops ready to be installed, I added support strips in the middle of the cabinets and applied liquid nails along the top of the cabinet frames.

Then I installed the countertops, adding extra weights on top to ensure a tight bond to the cabinets and let the liquid nails try for 24 hours.

Cutting and fitting the bookcase shelving panels

While the liquid nails were drying, I got to work measuring out the bookcase shelving panels and their placement on the countertop. First, I measured out where each panel would be placed, drawing 3 parallel lines marking the center point and the edge lines for each panel. 

To make sure the pre-drilled holes were lined up properly, I measured 1″ down from the center of the first holes to establish a consistent starting point and cut the boards. Then I measured up 60 3/4″, so that I could fit in a top piece for each bookcase section. 

I read and watched videos describing how melamine boards chip easy. That wasn’t the case when I cut them with my miter saw, but it was an issue when I tried to either trim down the sides using my oscillating multi-tool or used wood screws to secure the panels to walls or to each other. I’ll come back to working with the melamine shelving panels in a moment.

Wood filler and sanding

Once the liquid nails had cured, I used wood filler to fill in the gaps behind and between the countertop boards.  I used a small piece of filler rod to fill in the worst of the gaps.

Then I sanded the countertop again using 150 grit sandpaper. The middle seam was a little uneven and required multiple coats of wood filler and sanding.

Troubleshooting: From Brad Nails to Liquid Nails

Back to the melamine shelving panels! Another unexpected issue I ran into was securing the top cover board to the melamine shelving panels. The nail gun didn’t fire reliably and the melamine boards are heavy, too heavy in fact for the 1 1/4″brad nails I had access to. 

Each time I tried to lift everything together the brad nails pulled right out and twisted. I also tried using pocket screws, but that didn’t work either. The screws basically bounced off the melamine coating and made a mess of the top seam. The top cover board just wasn’t going to work.

So, I brainstormed and pivoted. I grabbed a left over piece of melamine shelving paneling, flipped it onto the un-drilled side, applied liquid nails to the edges, and slid that into place at the top. It was a better match fit wise, and after 24 hours of curing, was the solution I was looking for! I added extra liquid nails along the inside seams for a tighter bond.

A couple of things to note about melamine boards:

1) Along the edges, one side is taped and the other side is not. You can buy melamine tape and iron it on if needed for your project, but it can impact how you cut your boards if you’re doing single panel shelving (notice the panel to the right in the photo above). In my case, I’m added trim to cover the two panels, so it’s not an issue. But, after I had already cut several boards, I realized this could have been an issue since that would have required flipping the board in the other direction, meaning the pre-drilled holes wouldn’t have lined up properly. 

2) Sometimes there are sticker labels on the drilled side, which you need to remove. The stickers can be removed using a razor blade and I used an alcohol swab to remove the leftover residue. In fact I used rubbing alcohol to clean all of the boards before installing them.

Installing the bookshelf shelving paneling

With the countertop secured to the cabinets, and the margins for the shelving panels marked, I set about installing the remaining shelving panels. I ensured that each panel was level as it was installed, trimming the bottoms as needed so that they were snug against the wall, and adding liquid nails along the seams.

The most challenging panel was the last one, due to variances in the side wall corner.  The side panel had to be trimmed in the back, shimmed up at the base, and I had to add a 3/8” filler trim piece between the wall and the panel to make it level in each direction.

By this time I realized the brad nail gun I had borrowed from my neighbor simply wasn’t working for this project, so I ultimately decided to get a new 18 gauge multi-option brad nailer from Craftsman.  It made all of the difference for the rest of the build.

Installing the trim & crown molding

With the shelving panels installed, it was time to install the 1 1/2″ trim pieces along the top of the panels and along the shelving panel seams. I had to cut custom pieces to fit the far left and right edges.

From there I installed the crown molding, cutting two 8 ft. pieces down to fit. I held off installing the baseboard until after I had removed the cabinet doors for painting. 

But, I added caulk along each seam for a cleaner finish.

Installing the bookcase shelving

With the bookcase frame in place, I got to work cutting and fitting the shelves. Each shelf in the middle sections could be cut to the same length, and the far left and right sections were about 1/2″ wider.

As I was adjusting the height of each I quickly discovered that not all of the pre-drilled holes were drilled to the same depth, so the shelf support pins wouldn’t go in all of the way.  I used a similar sized drill bit and made the holes deeper.

Once that issue was resolved, the installation went smoothly, with some minor trims along the way.

Painting the countertop and cabinets

It was finally time to paint the countertop and cabinets. We initially considered painting the bookcase either green or blue, however I read and watched some YouTube videos showing that sanding and painting melamine boards is a tricky process. It was not something I really had time for. So, I went to our go-to Valspar Signature paint with an Eggshell finish. This paint already contains a primer, so the application process is painter friendly. I gave the countertops and cabinets a light sanding with 150 grit sand paper to smooth out any rough edges before I got started.

After the first coat of paint dried, I smoothed out each of the surfaces again with 150 grit sand paper.  I also noticed that the Eggshell paint from the first coat didn’t match the shelving well, so I switched to Flat paint which worked perfectly.

Final touches

Once all the paint was dry, I sanded off the excess paint that ended up on the back of the cabinet doors.

While I was working on the cabinets, I realized the original 3 ¾” baseboard was not going to be tall enough.  So I got 4 ¼” boards and I cut out a new baseboard.

Final thoughts

The bookshelf is now finished and we can’t wait to start loading it up with all the books and other items we have stored in our basement.  I still have lots of other things to work on in our home office remodel, including refinishing the two desks, and I’ll provide more updates once those projects are completed.

Building with melamine boards was a new experience for me. Alternately, I could have built the bookcase using plywood and a drilling spacer tool from Kreg. I wasn’t aware such a tool existed when I ordered the building materials. It would have added an extra step to the process, but it would have allowed us to paint bookcase and cabinetry a different color. Regardless, similar to other improvements we’ve made to our home, having this bookcase is a game changer for us and we can’t wait to load it up with books and other items stored in our basement.

If you are thinking of building a new bookcase for your home, below is a breakdown of the materials and costs for this project. If you found this post helpful, you may also want to check out how I built out our primary walk-in closet or deck remodel.

Materials and Cost$

Home Depot

Liquid Nails-$4.98

Melamine Pre-Drilled Side Panels-$22.97 ea. QTY 10-$229.70

1x3x8 Trim Board-$6.98

Wood Filler-$14.98

Lowe’s

ALEX Plus 10.1-oz Paint and Trim White Paintable Latex Caulk-$3.78

Melamine Shelves-$25.98 ea. QTY 8-$197.44

Nickel Shelf Pins (12 pack)-$4.96 ea. QTY 6-$28.38

Project Source 30x12x30 Lower Cabinets-$114 ea. QTY 5x-$541.50

9/16-in x 4-1/4-in x 8-ft Colonial Primed Finger Jointed Pine 620 Baseboard Moulding-$16.53 /ea. QTY 2-$33.06

1-in x 2-in x 8-ft Radius Edge Painted MDF Board-$7.29 /ea. QTY 5-$36.45

Unfinished S4S Spruce pine fir Edge-glued Project Softwood Board-$24.07 /ea. QTY 2-$48.14

10 x 3-in Yellow zinc Interior Cabinet Screws-$12.33

2-in x 4-in x 96-in Kiln-dried Whitewood #2 Stud-$3.78

2-in x 4-in x 14-ft Fir Kiln-Dried Lumber-$9.73 ea. QTY 2-$18.48

RELIABILT 8-ft Unfinished S4S Spruce pine fir Edge-glued Project Softwood Board-$32.35 ea. QTY 2-$64.70

9/16-in T x 2-5/8-in W x 8-ft L Pine Primed 53 Crown Moulding-$17.36 ea. QTY 2-$32.98

Valspar 2 -Pack 4-in x 3/8-in Nap Mini Woven Paint Roller Cover-$5.98 ea. QTY 2-$11.36

Project Total: $1,691.66

Tools Used

Lowe’s Tools

48″ Craftsman Level-$21.98

Craftsman Brad Nail Gun-$255.53

Dewalt Miter Saw-$299.00

Dewalt Sander-$89

Laser Level Pro-$11.99

Square-$7.98

Circular Saw-$99

Face Mask-$7.98

Safety Glasses-$9.95

Ace Hardware

Porter Cable Oscillating Multi-tool-$129.00

ACE Hardware

Black & Decker 6 amp Power Drill-$49.00

Table Saw (borrowed from neighbor)

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When you walk into our 2003 house, the first thing you look at, aside from the staircase, is our office to the right.  The room is fairly spacious at 26sq ft. and can either work as a bedroom, office space, or bonus room.  The room faces West, so it gets lots of afternoon sun, and we’ve already brightened up the space with a fresh coat of Valspar Ultra White paint.

However, as is the case in our living room, a large radiator awkwardly occupies a corner of the room and limits usable wall space.  My wife, Joanna, gets cold easily, so her desk area is right on top that radiator to keep her cozy during the colder months.  I’m the opposite and sit on the opposite side of the room.

Our current office layout

We have an upright piano, which I grew up learning to play, and two antique desks (one of them is seen below) from my family, both of which need refinishing.  While they both look bulky, each has deep drawers and are built to last forever, so we are salvaging them.

While I love photos of office desks that are placed central or floating in the middle of a room, with built in bookcases or shelving set around them, I’ve never quite understood how such a lay out works in a functional way.  There are never power cables in the photos, no power source for your computer or laptop. I usually never see where the printer is set up.  So, we are keeping our desks against the wall, near power sources.

Similar to our new primary closet situation, where we didn’t have sufficient space for our cloths, we have loads of books in boxes from our former NYC apartment, and more anticipated from my parent’s art book collection (currently in storage).  We also have our collections of CDs and DVDs (remember those?!) boxed up.  We just don’t have any shelves or drawers to put them on or in.

Lastly, we need space for letter size filing.  There are my files, Joanna’s files, and I’m also my mother’s POA, so there is a TON of paper work to keep organized.  Currently our files are in ugly plastic tubs.

The office design plan

We’re planning to add the built-in bookcase opposite the window.  The wall is 12.5’, so there should be plenty of storage space width-wise. While we’d prefer to have 24 inch cabinets beneath the bookcase, the challenge we keep running into is the radiator, with the piano next to it.  It limits the amounts of space for deep lower cabinets. Joanna and I agree that the current set up of the two desks and the piano are all in the best places. So, we are going to use five 30x12x30 upper kitchen cabinets as base cabinets for storage, with an inch buffer on either side.

For filing, we’re working with what we already have access to. We’re bringing in a two drawer, horizontal filing cabinet from my old office’s storage space, that has been sitting in my in-law’s basement for the past 4 years.  I’m so glad we finally found a useful place for it!

In addition to the built-in bookshelves, we are also planning for either floating shelves or hanging artwork above our desks.

Sourcing the building materials

I had to source the building materials from both Lowe’s and Home Depot.  Home Depot is favored by professional contractors, while Lowe’s is generally geared toward homeowners and DIYers, like myself, although they also offer Pro discount rates (5%), which I take advantage of.

Lowe’s does not seem to offer White Melamine Drilled Wood Shelves 11.75 in. D x 97 in. L, which I need for the shelving side panels.  They only offer 15.75 in panels, which are too deep for this project.

Because of the sheer volume of materials needed, I’m having everything delivered.  I can’t wait to get this project started and share the building process and final results with you.

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During the Summer of 2024 we were staring at a metal rack shelf that also served as the clothing rod. It wasn’t nearly enough space to accommodate all of our clothes.  We dreamed of having a spacious closet, with loads of storage space. 

The Starting Point

It was apparent we needed to expand the size of the closet. That required tearing out the existing closet wall, building a new wall blocking off the hallway leading to the bathroom, and creating a new doorway into the bathroom.  An overhead HVAC duct and a small existing radiator needed to be incorporated into the design layout. No space would be left unused.

Mitchell Contracting, who worked on our kitchen and bathroom remodels, built the additional wall and installed the overhead lighting.  That helped give us a better feel of the space available.

Getting Inspiration

We studied many photos of walk-in closet layouts on Google and Houzz for inspiration. Then I found a series of YouTube videos by Stefani Terry (Friedenfels) of Home With Stefani, detailing one of her own closet renos.  The videos helped me make sense of what was needed and how the closet could be built DIY.  She served as an inspiration for this project, including using pocket screws and Ikea dressers. Below is a photo from her closet reveal, which inspired our own closet build.

The New Closet Design

We needed two levels of clothing rods, matching dressers, a shoe rack, lots of additional shelving and space for laundry. After learning how to use Sketchup (another helpful assist from Stefani), I designed a plan that would maximize the space and shared it with my wife, Joanna.

I also mapped out the space with painter’s tape.  That allowed us to visualize how the clothing racks, shelving and dressers would work together. It also showed us how much elbow room we would have. We were tripling our storage space and could both be inside the closet without bumping into each other.

We were ready to build.  Not a whole lot changed from the original design.

The Closet build

My first task was removing that metal shelf and spackling all of the holes left behind. 

With that done, I worked on building the frame for the clothing rods. I cut out sections of the baseboard so the side paneling fit snugly, using my Oscillating Multi-tool.  I wasn’t actually sure if we were going to get our two levels of clothing rods in until those four panels were installed. 

While I initially tried securing the side panels to the drywall using 1 ½” screws and wood glue, I quickly discovered that approach was not going to work for this project.  So, I got 3” screws instead, used a stud finder, and secured them directly into the studs.  I also used a pocket drill guide and pocket screws (my first time using these) to secure the panels into the floor.  This was a much more effective approach for me and set the process for the rest of the closet build.

Once each of the four panels were in place, I set about adding the top shelf.  While the floor was level throughout the room, this is when I discovered just how uneven the walls of the closet were, a continual issue throughout the build.

After multiple cuts and trims, I got the top shelf in and secured it with more pocket screws.  I measured out the locations for each of the clothing rods, and to my relief, raising the top rod a couple of inches provided just enough clearance for the bottom rods.

Ikea dressers

While most of the building supplies I used came from Lowe’s, our go-to resource for our renovation projects, we got two matching TARVA 5-drawer dressers from Ikea.  Aside from the clothing rods and the small radiator, the dressers dictated the spacing for the rest of the closet build.  It took about 2 hours to build each dresser and they matched perfectly with the wood paneling/shelving I got from Lowe’s.

Taking a cue from other DIYers, I skipped installing the legs beneath the dressers and instead built a base of 2×4’s that I secured to wall studs and added a flat panel for the dressers to lay on.  The dressers were then secured to side panels that would double as sides for the shelving.

The build continued

From there, I set about installing the final wall panels and fitting each of the remaining top selves, securing everything with the pocket screws.  The variances of the walls grew clearer, with some gaps behind the panels as wide as ¾ of an inch or more.

With the panels in place, I began installing the shelves.  This in one area where my Sketchup design and reality didn’t match, so I had to make some adjustments along the way.

The last shelving to go in was for the shoe rack.  Everything ultimately looked like it was the way the closet should have been built in the first place.

Filling in the gaps: wood filler, filler rods and caulking

With all of the paneling in place, the next step was filling in the pocket screw holes and the gaps at the tops of the panels, caused by the uneven walls.  I used wood filler to cover the pocket screw holes, using multiple coatings to fill the gaps evenly.

Many of the gaps behind the panels were too large to simply caulk over, so I got some filler rods: 3/8”, 1/2” and 5/8” to fill in the gaps. Even then some of the gaps were too large, so I had to get creative.  I retrieved the long wood strip that once held up the shelf in the old closet and got two additional 1×2 wood strips, then cut and trimmed them down, using a table saw and an oscillating multi-tool, so they would fit behind the shelving.  Thank goodness this plan worked.

With the wood strips and filler rods in place, I set about caulking behind each shelving space and the clothing rod panels.  It took way more caulk than expected, 10 tubes in total!  Similar to the wood filler, it took multiple layers of caulk to make everything smooth.

Sanding

Once all of gaps were filled, the closet required a whole lot of sanding.  I knew that the sanding was going to create a ton of dust, so I covered the doorway leading to the bathroom with a plastic sheet to contain the dust.  Then I grabbed my DeWalt sander, a box of 150-grit sand paper, and got to work.

The 150-grit sandpaper did the trick, even in the roughest areas.  Did I mention there was going to be a lot of dust?  The plastic sheet definitely helped contain it.  I swept, vacuumed and wiped down everything with wet towels, making sure no dust remained.

Priming

I used 1-2-3 Bulls-Eye Water Based Primer to prime the surfaces.  It took multiple coats to cover the knots in the wood, using a little over a gallon of primer to complete 2 coats.

One thing to note here: there is both water-based and oil-based interior/exterior primer.  While oil-based primer may cover a surface area more effectively and for longer than a water-based primer, it is petroleum based, so it smells intensely and requires lots of ventilation.  I tried it… and quickly stopped using it.  It made our house smell like an oil field.  If you are going to use an oil-based primer or paint, I recommend only using them for exterior projects.  Oil-based primer is also more expensive than water-based primer.

I did another light sanding of the primer layer with 180 grit sandpaper to smooth out the surfaces and create a better bonding surface for the paint.

Painting

We considered several different color options to paint the closet.  Our shower tile has varying shades of blue in it, making it difficult to match, and the floor tile is a mixture of grey and brown, which was also difficult to match.  

We ultimately went with the same bright white paint we’ve used for most of our house, Valspar Signature Ultra White in an Eggshell finish.  With the stainless-steel handles we planned to add to the dressers, it proved the best option and tied in perfectly with our bathroom. I used a gallon of paint for this project.

The finishing touches

The final tasks were putting the clothing rods back into place and adding the handles to the dressers.  Looking around the room, it was hard to believe how much the space had transformed, and we couldn’t wait to move our clothes in!

It was a labor intensive, but joyful experience transferring our clothes into the new closet.  We couldn’t believe how much space we had to work with or how much stuff we had to fill in the shelves and drawers.  The tiny NYC apartment we once shared had two decent sized closets, which kept us sane while living there, but this is the best closet we’ve ever had since we started living together.

With the primary bathroom and closet renovations complete, we can stop dreaming and finally function normally and comfortably.

Below is a breakdown of materials and costs if you are thinking of remodeling your own closet. If you enjoyed this story, check out our kitchen or deck remodels.

Materials & Cost$

Ikea

TARVA 5-drawer dressers-$249.99 each (2x)-$500.00

Lowe’s Materials

Project Source Lumber:

• (3/4x16x6) $29.58 each (13x for panels and shelves)-$384.54
• (3/4x12x6) 24.14 each (2x for shoe rack)-$48.28
• (3/4x16x8)-$32.35 each (top shelf)-$32.35

Project Source Clothing Rods-$17.98 each (2x)-$34.16

Clothing Rod Socket Set-$3.98 each (5x)-$8.98

#10 x 3″ Screws-$12.98 each

Kreg Pocket Screws-$9.95 each (2x)-19.90

Allen & Roth Prospero Dresser Knobs 340548-$1.98 each (20x)-$39.60

Filler Rod:

• 3/8″-$3.97 each (2x)-$7.94
• 1/2″-$4.98 each
• 5/8″-$4.98 each

Wood Shims-$1.58 each

RELIABILT Soft Wood Boards (filler shims)-$2.75 each (2x)-$5.50 

Primer-$33.88 (2x)-$67.76

Valspar Signature Ultra White Paint (Eggshell)-$42.73

Spackle-$13.98

Wood Filler-$15.23

Alex Plus Caulk-$3.98 each (10x)-$39.80

Contractor paper– $11.38

Paint Brushes:

• 2″ Edging brush-$13.48
• 2″ flat brush-$3.78
• Mini Rollers-$5.58 each (3x)-$16.74

Project total: $1,330.65

Lowe’s Tools

48″ Craftsman Level-$21.98

Laser Level Pro-$11.99

Square-$7.98

Dewalt Miter Saw-$299.00

Dewalt Sander-$89

Kreg Pocket Drill Jig-$149.00

Circular Saw-$99

Face Mask-$7.98

Safety Glasses-$9.95

Ace Hardware

Black & Decker 6 amp Power Drill-$49.00

Porter Cable Oscillating Multi-tool-$129.00

Table Saw (borrowed from neighbor)

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Your Lattice Options

Lattice is available in multiple materials, including pressure treated wood lattice (in two overlapping layers) and vinyl lattice (single layer), the latter of which has transitional and end cap connectors, for a more streamlined installation.  The pressure treated wood lattice requires painting or staining, while the latter comes in multiple colors.

To save on delivery costs, we bought the wood lattice at Lowe’s at the same time we bought the Trex and cabling materials, and planned to complete the installation once it was warm enough to work outdoors again.  We didn’t know what color stain we were going to use on the deck at the time and we later learned the lattice materials available at one store weren’t available at another, so we didn’t know what all our options were.  In hindsight, we should have waited until the deck remodel was complete as we could have gone with the Redwood Vinyl option.

Cutting The Lattice

As is evident in our deck remodel photos, our deck is built on a hillside with uneven slopes, a very challenging environment to work with.  Ordinarily you should start this kind of project by building out the framing first. However, I didn’t have the framing materials yet, and the lattice was already in our garage, so I started out by measuring the lengths for each lattice cut.  Once the I had my measurements, I transferred them to the lattice sheets and tried using 3 different types of saws to cut the lattice.  The reciprocating saw caused too much kick-back and the circular saw, used in a forward direction, had the same issue.  I settled on the oscillating multi-tool, which did the job, but I later learned the circular saw was also a good option if you flip the blade around. 

With the lattice cut, I double checked to be sure each piece would cover the deck frame sufficiently, which they did. 

Staining the Lattice

Then I worked on staining the lattice.  I only had half a gallon of the Dark Oak stain left from the deck frame and posts. Assuming there would be too much wasted stain using a spray gun, I opted to use a 3” roller on a paint stick.  10 hours later (over multiple days), and another gallon in, I only had one side of each lattice stained and it clearly needed another coat.  This approach wasn’t going to work. 

I pulled out my Wagner paint gun, put on full body covering, goggles and face mask (all at Joanna’s request) and tested things out. Only 3 hours later, I had the other side of the lattice stained and things looked much more fully and evenly coated.  While the clean up using a spray gun takes several minutes, the amount of time I saved using it made it well worth it.

Staining And Building The Frame

Next up was staining and building the frame for the lattice, which I made using 2×4’s.  I also needed to sand and stain the base of the deck itself so that everything would match.

Building the frame proved especially challenging due to the uneven sloping underneath the deck.  Plus, I couldn’t use a ladder anywhere.  I made sure each corner lined up properly before securing everything together and had to re-cut some of the vertical posts because the base pieces would sink into the ground as I added nails.

Installing The Lattice

With the framing done, I laid out each piece of lattice again to be sure they fit properly. Then I made final cuts to get everything to fit snugly, trimming down overlapping sections at the corners.  I used ¾” Bostitch staples to secure each lattice in place.  The staples worked well and could easily be removed with a screwdriver and pliers if there were any issues.  That was key when I was determining where each vertical post needed to be installed during framing.  Using brad nails would have proved more difficult.

Adding A Door

The last detail was adding a door so we could retain access underneath the deck.  I initially cut two 2×4’s lengthwise to build out the frame, then determined where the hinges and bolt would go, cutting the lattice accordingly.  However, I quickly discovered that the thinner cuts made the door frame too flexible, so I reverted to uncut 2×4’s for the top and bottom, which proved much sturdier.

We wanted the lattice to look consistent around the deck, and for the door to blend in more, so, I secured the lattice to the deck frame, cut the lattice around the door frame, trimming a little extra on the hinge side.  It worked out perfectly.

Unexpected Visitors

Interestingly, while I was staining the deck support posts, I noticed an army of termites underneath the deck on an exploratory mission to establish a new colony.  One day they were there by the hundreds, the next day they were gone.  So, I knew we need to retain access underneath so we could monitor further activity let alone store anything.  We’re planning to add termite bait stations as a precaution.

The Finishing Touches

The deck now looks complete and uniform from the top down.  It’s now too cold out (< 50* fahrenheit) for the stain to dry properly, so next Spring I will go around with the paint brush for final touch ups. 

While using Redwood vinyl lattice would have saved both time and money, using the pressure treated lattice was more consistent with the rest of the deck frame and railing, so we’re ultimately happy with how things turned out.  Using the Wagner spray gun was definitely the better tool for the staining the lattice vs. using a roller.

Below is a breakdown of materials and costs if you are thinking of adding lattice to your deck. If you liked this story, you can reading about our deck remodel or about our bathroom and kitchen remodels.

Materials & Cost$:

Lowe’s:

Pressure Treated Wood Lattice: Item #429248 – $29.98 / sheet (9 sheets)

2×4’s- Multiple lengths– $374.85

Door Hinges: Item #3734352 – $3.98 each

Door Bolt: Item #309003 – $5.98 each

GRAND TOTAL: $662.59

Tools Used:

Wagner paint gun: $189

Power Drill/Screwdriver– $54.99

30″ Craftsman Level– $21.98

Bostitch Staple Gun– 21.98

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